Luxor is, like many towns, a mixture of old and new. It has one of the best known bars in Egypt - the Kings Head. The king in question is Akhenaten! It's a strange mixture of styles, but a bottle of local Stella is cheap and cold! The food here is excellent and well priced, and the pub is very popular with backpackers, and the visitor can always get an interesting conversation

A weaver at work in the same building as the King's Head. There are many small art and craft shops in this building, each worth a visit. And the prices are much better than in the so-called Government Bazaars. These bazaars should be avoided by tourists at all costs - the prices are a rip-off, and the caleche or taxi drivers who take you there are on a vey high commission, thus guaranteeing that you will not get a bargain. While we're on the subject, a caleche might seem a wonderfully romantic way of getting around, but try to resist temptation, unless you are very strong-willed. The drivers are the most in-your-face salesmen you will ever meet. At least they gave me the opportunity to use one or two Arabic swear words!

There are now quite a few English style bars in Luxor. The King's Head is close to some of the larger hotels. However, at the other end of Luxor - New Karnak, close to the Hilton, is a new bar which is well worth a visit. It's called Genesis, and opened in 2003. You can't miss it because of all of the illuminated signs outside. It also has the advantage of not closing until the last customer is ready to leave!Click to see more of Genesis

As well as beer etc, you can also get reasonably priced food, both Western and Egyptian. One tip - if you like wine, Egyptian wine is much better with an ice-cube in it, as room temperature means a different thing in Egypt! Best brand is Obelisk - but if you're really stuck, Omar Khayam is just about drinkable, with lots of ice!